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Thursday, 21 April 2011

Vesper's are Forever

The Vesper Martini is one of the cocktail worlds most famous libations, the recipe first appeared in Ian Flemmings 1953 book Casino Royal and was given a new lease of life in the 2006 movie of the same name.


In Casino Royal (2006), Bonds whilst indulging in one of his glorious vices, this time gambling, switches his now famed Vodka Martini for a Vesper, the recipe for which he recites; 'Three measures of Gordon's; one of vodka; half a measure of Kina Lillet Shaken over ice' with a thin slice of lemon peel. 


True to his character Bond is 'Keeping the British end up' with his choice of gin although there has been a fair few very British brands released since the original 1953 recipe, i'm thinking for a reasonable juniper hit but a little more complexity Plymouth Gin, a softer style of gin is a delicious choice. Ian Flemming recommends a nice Polish vodka for the Vesper, one can assume either Rye or Potato which I find a 'trifle over powering', my preference is for something a little more subtle and given the British nature of the drink Tanqueray Sterling is a fine choice. 
Kina Lillet is a bitter aperitif which is no longer available and has been replaced by Lillet Blanc, I usually opt for a carefully controlled tear drop of Angostura Bitters in an attempt to recreate the classic recipe.


As for this 'Shaken, not Stirred' business, my preference for a stirred martini was made clear in my post about the Gin Martini although there is a rather interesting study in favour of the shaken martini I feel compelled to share with you. The Department of Biochemistry at the University of Western Ontario in Canada suggests a shaken martini is more effective in deactivating hydrogen peroxide than the stirred variety, thereby helping prevent diseases associated with ageing. Any one interested in checking this study out please click here.


It would seem I am beginning to digress so without further interruption;


The Vesper Martini

Plymouth Gin 45ml
Tanqueray Sterling Vodka 15ml
Lillet Blanc 10ml
Angostura Bitters 1 tear drop


Stir or shake over ice (dependant on age and health) strain in to a chilled Martini glass and garnish with a thin slice of lemon peel.





The Vesper is a rather interesting twist in the classic gin martini, at first I was rather sceptical of vodka's use when mixed with gin, assuming it would simply dilute and weaken the flavour, turns out it plays it's part rather well. The vodka smoothes out the gin just enough to take the edge off, the lillet being slightly sweeter than the usual dry vermouth works wonderfully with the toned down gin with the hint of bitterness balancing out the sweetness.


A while back I treated myself to a bottle of Chase Marmalade Vodka,a lovely if not slightly sweet vodka flavoured with Seville Orange Marmalade and Seville Orange Peel. As nice as this is I was at a bit of a loss of how to mix it when it occurred to me that the sweet orange notes of the vodka would combine perfectly those of Whitley Neill and The Breakfast Vesper an amalganation of the Breakfast Martini, a delightful libation containing gin, cointreau, lemon juice and marmalade and the Vesper Martini was born.


The Breakfast Vesper

Whitley Neill - 45ml
Chase Marmalade Vodka - 15ml
Campari - 5ml

Stir all ingredients in a large mixing vessel, ensuring the drink is ice cold, strain in to a chilled Martini glass and garnish with a thin slice of pink grapefruit zest.

The Breakfast Vesper, Photographed by Sofia Miranda
As expected the Whitley Neill is a perfect pairing with the Marmalade Vodka, however with a reasonable sweetness already present I wanted to avoid using Lillet. Rather than going back down the vermouth route I popped in a little Campari for something to to balance the sweetness, it turns out Campari's bitterness was just the ticket. The Whitley Neill shines through followed by very subtle orange marmalade flavour with little sweetness, the campari is only just detectable plays its part of balancing the sweetness well. A rather cheeky twist on the Vesper but probably a little too hard core for breakfast... only just.

So thinking this post was over with I stumbled over a rather rare vodka, Chase Smoked, the first flavour released by the Herefordshire Distillery, a flavour I had the pleasure of tasting when I visited the distillery a year or so back. When I first tasted the vodka I immediately had the urge for a smoky martini, with gin of course. Usually made with scotch in addition to gin and vermouth I was looking forward to using this cleaner smoked spirit... wait a second, gin, vodka... oh here comes another Vesper Twist...


The Smoked Vesper
William Chase Gin 45ml
Chase Smoked Vodka 15ml
Noilly Prat Vermouth 15ml

Stir all ingredients over ice and strain in to a chilled cocktail glass, garnish with a lime twist.

The Smoked Vesper, Photographed by yours truly.
As much as this drink makes me look like a whore to Chase Distilleries, the William Chase gin and smoked vodka are a sensational pairing, something about smokey apples really seems to work, I went for a Noilly Prat as the spicy botanical mix works well with the complexity of William Chase Gin.The aroma of this drink is sensational, fresh lime lest with a hint of smoke, a type of smoke I would describe as cleaner than that of a scotch, some really floral elderflower notes shine through as well as some crisp green apple.

We Hope You Enjoy

Umpleby & Brown

Tuesday, 19 April 2011

We Live in an Unusual World...

Hendrick's Gin, photographed & Edited by Sofia Miranda

Hendrick's Gin is a cheeky little bottling, a New Western Dry style of gin distilled at William Grant's spirit production plant in Scotland.

Hendrick's is a small batch gin, well, small, small batch (the usual still size for small scale being 1,000 litres and the still used to produce Hendrick's being 450 litres). Hendrick's pride themselves on being a rather unusual product, and why not, the gin is bottled in a unique apothecary style bottle, distilled in Scotland and uses random botanicals such as chamomile flowers, meadowsweet as well as the distilled oils of rose petals and cucumber. To me the above aren't what makes Hendrick's unusual, the botanicals and the bottle certainly make it unique, but there are a fair amount of gin's being distilled in Scotland now day's. What truly strikes me as unusual is the use of two different methods of distillation and blending the two together to create the final product.

Blending spirits is a rather common practice in the world alcohol, brandies, whiskies and rums are commonly subject to blending, to achieve consistency, complexity or simply to cut costs by blending well aged products with some with not so much wood contact. As for gin, some gin producers prefer to distill each individual botanical separately and blend them together to give them more control over each flavour. What Hendrick's does different is to distill it's selected botanicals in two types of still, a style of pot still known as a Bennet still, and a carter head still. When using the Bennet still the botanicals are steeped in the neutral spirit before distillation, this method stews the botanicals and the final distillate has a more intense, full on deep flavour. When using the carter head still the botanicals are blaced above the neutral spirit and are infused as the vapour passes through them, this style of distillation produces a rather delicate and subtle flavour. The two distillates are then blended together, two get the best from both styles of distillation, before the distilled essence of cucumber and rose are added to the mix.

The resulting gin is a rather pleasant change from the norm, arguably one of the pioneering gins of the New Western Dry style. Hendrick's has a wonderfully fresh, floral aroma notes of rose petals, violets and a slight hint of lavender all spring to mind, the cucumber is less dominant than one would be led to believe although it does impart an almost melon like freshness, lovely subtle pine notes from the juniper but as one would expect from a New Western Dry these do not take centre stage.

On the palate its much of the same story, very floral with the rose being the more dominant than it was on the nose, juniper makes a welcomed appearance, also more dominant on the palate,  this is followed by a lovely citrus zing and a once again subtle fresh cucumber notes.

Hendrick's is a very unique, approachable gin, between this and its rather odd advertising campaign I believe it has done great things taking consumers out of their comfort zones and introducing them to a new style of gin.

We Hope You Enjoy

Umpleby & Brown

Monday, 18 April 2011

Does it Really Get Better With Age?

Citadelle Reserve Gin, Photographed & Edited by Sofia Miranda

After sampling Seagrams Extra Dry Gin I decided to dig out my bottle of Citadelle Reserve, another aged gin from a more premium producer. Having been surprised by the quality of Seagrams and with a slightly hazy memory of Citadelle I was hoping for big things...

Citadelle Reserve is the combination of the original Citadelle Gin a vibrant French gin containing a staggering 19 botanicals, with a few months ageing in what one can only assume given their cellar master would be ex Cognac casks. The bottling I am sampling is from the 72nd bottle from cask 9 of 21 from 2008.

Usually I skip the aesthetics of gin during tastings, Clear? Yes! Good is the usual format of such things, obviously with an aged gin it is necessary to take a gander. The Citadelle Reserve has a lovely light golden colour, slightly reminiscent of a crisp, fresh white wine.

At first on the nose I was met with a surprising amount of juniper, something the unaged expression of Citadelle isn't known for, this juniper hit was quickly followed by a rather unusual yet welcome vanilla nose with some spicy peppery notes, a classic aroma courtesy of the coriander. After a breif break and a breath of fresh air I nosed the gin a second time, to my amazement the aroma had transformed and I was greeted with a fresh lemon citrus hit, I also got the aroma of what I can only describe as hops, a little bit of an unusual one for gin but very interesting nonetheless, highly complex on the nose now on the the main event, the palate!

The complexity of this gin continued on the palate, most notably the oaky sweetness, i'm thinking vanilla and a hint of caramel, this was followed by a light citrus tingle with the juniper taking a step back from the dominant aroma I first encountered, other notes include spicy coriander and bitter orange as well as a wide variety of other flavours not identifiable but minglng to form an incredibly complex and interesting bottling.

All in all a thoroughly pleasant experience, aged gin however unusual it may seem is begining to make a name for itself if not only among a small number of those in the know, whether it will ever be the next big thing is yet to be seen, Seagrams is a super large brand but whether this is more to do with advertising and mass production rather than the quality and interest in it's unusual production methods is a debatable. Either way, Citadelle Reserve is an exceptional and very unusual gin, one I would encourage ever gin enthusiast to indulge in. I look forward to sampling the next aged gin to hit the market, rumour has it this will be launched at Gin Fete 2011!

We Hope You Enjoy

Umpleby & Brown

Sunday, 17 April 2011

I've Got Love For Gin if it Was Mixed in the 80's....

I sometimes feel mixology is taken a little too seriously, bartenders often forget to appreciate certain ingredients or drinks for the part they have played in broadening peoples horizons to the world of mixed drinks. I also feel this snobbery is more prominent with gin than any other spirit, Rum has the Tiki craze, a respectable alternative to the classic cocktail culture, vodka has the not so respectable disco era where it was abused by a wide array of fruity liquors or syrups to cover up any hint of alcohol where as gin with it's big bold flavours and a firm set of widely accepted serves, the gin and tonic and the martini has survived bastardisation relatively unscathed, well with the exception of the odd hiccup that is...

One ever so disco cocktail is the Blue Lagoon, commonly mixed up in 80's themed bars with vodka, blue curacao, and lemonade. The drink actually hails from one of the most inflencial bars for classic drinks, Harry's New York Bar in Paris. The original recipe was a simple mix of gin, blue curacao and fresh lemon, simply a gin sour with slight notes of orange and a cheeky colour. The original is delicious but a little far removed from the one served up throughout the era of cheese, perhaps an amalgamation of the two is in order for a drink worthy of sipping when donning bright leg warmers and singing along to to the Summer of 69...

The Blue Lagoon
Martin Millers Gin 75ml
Blue Curacao 20ml
Apricot Brandy 15ml
Lemon Juice 25ml
Soda Water Top

Shake all ingredients except soda, strain in to an curvaceous and slightly tacky glass, top with soda and garnish with a mint bush and the largest orange wheel you can craft.

The Blue Lagoon, Photographed by Sofia Miranda
Essentially a dry gin collins with a fruity hint of orange and apricot brandy, perfect for summer sipping. The addition of Apricot Brandy combines with the blue curacao to provide a little sweetness, balancing the drink without overpowering any other flavours. For my choice of gin, I found a hefty slug of Martin Millers to be a perfect match to the light citrus notes, adding that little extra something with the floral violet and spicy black pepper notes, making it a winning choice in the Blue Lagoon, and as for the orange wheel, a nod to Mr Humphery who I believe is fond of such garnishes...

So bright blue and fizzy out of the way the search continues for more disco for gin to boogie on down with, a surprisingly difficult task, leaving me in need of a a little improvisation...


Pre bartender snobbery the June Bug was a firm favourite of mine, a tropical mix of coconut rum, melon and banana liqueurs with pineapple juice, sweet, fruity and easy to drink. My sentimental feelings for this drink inclined me to craft a gin twist, but what gin could possibly replace a coconut rum in such an exotic beverage?

Actually, one does spiring to mind...

The Hoxton June Bug
Hoxton Gin 50ml
Midori 15ml
Banana Liquer 15ml
Lime Squeeze x 2
Freshly extracted pineapple juice 100ml

Shake all ingredients and strain in to a tall glass over ice, an over the top, half moon pineapple garnish is definitely essential.
The Hoxton June Bug, photographed by Sofia Miranda 
What can I say, a little more complex and less artificial than the June Bug's of old, the coconut notes are noticeable yet far fresher than any coconut rum, the grapefruit notes of Hoxton cuts through the tropical fruity notes adding a degree of freshness with the juniper raising it's head at the finish. Very reminiscent of the tropical flavours of my uneducated drinking day's, an enjoyable blast from the past!

We Hope You Enjoy

Umpleby & Brown

Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Berry-tastic Gin

Berry's are an essential and common botanical in gin, juniper berries must always be present, cubeb berries sometimes join them to add a peppery spice, berries which are rarely used in gin are those we consume on a regular basis, blackberries and blueberries are infant a rather unusual botanical to find in gin.

The gin I am talking about is Brockmans Gin, one of those new western dry styles we hear so much about these days. and in true form of this new style of gin Brockmans far removed from the classic juniper heavy styles often associated with the category.

The label claims the liquid inside carries with it subtle aromas of berry, personally the first smell was like being kicked in the face by Chuck Norris with a bramble bush attached to his foot, there is an ever so slight whiff of juniper, think juniper under the influence of horse tranquillisers and you would be on the right track.    

On the palate Brockmans is pretty smooth, as promised, there is a degree of sweetness with the berry notes once again proving dominant, I find an almost peppery spice which I often associate with coriander, juniper makes the occasional brief appearance but certainly does not hang around for too long.

The chaps at Brockmans claim this is a new gin experience, a claim which is certainly substantiated by the unique flavour profile, although it does raise  the question once again niggles at the back of my mind, is juniper the dominant flavour, the necessary requirement for a gin to be a gin?

A rather enjoyable gin, smooth and sweet, it definitely stands out from the crowd, I also find it refreshing for a gin to be intended to be drunk straight rather than made to mix. This would be a perfect gin for those uninitiated in the ways of juniper heavy spirits.

We hope you enjoy

Umpleby & Brown

Wednesday, 2 March 2011

Sipping on Gin and Juice (Laid Back)

Seagram's Extra Dry Gin Photographed by Sofia Miranda

Seagrams is a staple gin stateside, the equivalent of Gordon's here in Blighty, I came across a bottle recently and thought i'd give it a go, admittedly at £15 I wasn't expecting much but wanted to see first hand what all the hullabaloo was about.

The first thing that drew my attention to Seagrams Extra Dry was the colour, the majority of gin's are clear where as Seagrams has a light hay coloured hue to it, could it be this mass produced gin is barrel aged?

It turns out Seagrams Extra Dry is in fact rested in American white oak barrels for a few weeks after distillation to mellow the spirit. A lovely touch and one which imparts slight vanilla notes in to the gin without any of the tannins often imparted from longer periods of ageing in oak. Obviously the short time the spirit spends in oak isn't the only flavour contributing to the gin, a classic botanical mix including juniper, coriander, angelica root and orange peel are steeped in the neutral grain spirit prior to distillation.

On the nose I was immediently met with creamy vanilla cut with a spicy peppery, orange note and our oh so ever welcome friend juniper mingling about the place. On the palate the vanilla is subtle but still present, the spice of the coriander is rather dominant and combines perfectly with the pine notes of the juniper the slight citrus, fruitiness of the orange gives the gin a nice fresh lift.

I found Seagrams Extra Dry a rather smooth and extremely interesting gin, no unusual botanicals have been used but the combination of classic botanicals and oak maturation creates a rather unique flavour profile. I personally would not describe this as extra dry but perhaps the vanilla notes from the oak simply give an impression of sweetness.

Seagrams also produce a barrel proof gin, something which I am rather looking forward to imbibing, watch this space...

In addition to Seagrams cracking gin's they seem to produce a pre mixed range of drinks, Seagrams Gin & Juice, flavours include Red Fury and Lemon-Berry Blaze. At this point I must say I am a little adverse to pre bottled drinks, supermarkets in the UK are flooded with pre mixed brandy Alexanders, Cosmopolitans and the sort, i just feel it takes the skill out of preparing exquisite drinks not to mention moving away from fresh ingredients to a whole load of E number.

It must be the snob in me but I feel it's a shame to see a producer who distills such an exceptional product lower the tone by entering the pre mixed cocktail market, especially when the inspiration for name has come from an early 90's rap song. I do find this marketing ploy rather clever considering Cognac producers have paid millions to get their brand mentioned in rap songs, but not gin, gin producers are smart enough to see an opportunity and run with it, after all why pay millions for the cool kids to rap about your products if steal the name of their song. At the end of the day I guess bills must be paid and if high volume, mixes for the masses allow Seagrams the finance and backing to create their stunning Extra Dry Gin and the barrel strength expressions I should probably wind my neck in a little. Therefore in the interest of fairness may I propose a suggested serve for Seagrams Gin & Juice;

Gin & Juice

Any flavour of Seagrams Gin & Juice
Brown Paper Bag x 1
Low Rider with hydraulic suspension 

Warning: it may be frowned upon if you roll down the street smoking endo and sipping on one of these, but it will certainly make you ghetto fabulous.

We Hope You Enjoy

Umpleby & Brown  

Sunday, 20 February 2011

A Touch of Bombay Spice

Bombay Dry and Sapphire Photographed by Sofia Miranda

Bombay Sapphire is a globally recognised spirit, distinctive packaging, a unique style of distillation, and great marketing have all made sure of this. As with every popular brand it has not gone without criticism, there are those who deny it's place in the gin world claiming it's light flavour profile make it more akin to a vodka than what was traditionally known as a gin. Although this could be viewed as a negative those who make this clim often fail to consider the rest of the Bombay range, yes there are more than one, two in fact, Bombay Dry is relatively unheard of  in Blighty often overshadowed by the more modern and glitzy Bombay Sapphire. Bombay Dry is a more traditional style of gin, big, bold and heavy in juniper, a gin which would satisfy the juniper addiction of purists. Bombay Sapphire on the other hand has a lighter flavour profile which appeals to a wider audience, those new to the spirit or those who usually drink vodka may well consume Sapphire as a stepping stone in to the category, gin for the masses, how can this be a bad thing?

Both Bombay Dry and Sapphire employ the same distillation method, vapour infusion. The traditional method of producing gin is to steep the botanicals in the neutral spirit prior to distillation to begin extracting the essence of the botanicals, it has been argued that by using this method one boils or stews the botanicals. The vapour method of infusion involves distilling the nuetral spirit on it's own allowing the vapours to pass through the botanicals which are held in a basket in the neck of the still, as the vaporised alcohol passes through the botanicals it extracts their essence. The vapour method of producing gin creates a more subtle and lighter flavour where as steeping especially for an extended period of time like Beefeater who steep for 24 hours before distillation will obviously extract more flavour. Neither method of distillation is necessarily better, they just create a different style of gin.

Bombay Dry is distilled with eight different botanicals; Juniper, Coriander Seeds, Lemon Peel,Angelica Root, Cassia Bark, Orris Root, Liquorice and Almonds and bottled at 43% abv. On the nose Bombay Dry is a rather powerful gin, not so Juniper punchy as Junipero but definitely dominant in the Juniper department, lemony citrus notes follow the juniper but there is an unfortunate alcohol burn which restricts further analysis of aroma.  On the palate the gin is a lot smoother than the burn on the nose would allow you to believe, it is a fresh citrusy gin with juniper not as dominant as it is on the nose but present all the same. Bombay Dry also possesses a rather pleasant earthy, spiciness which I can only imagine comes from the combination of coriander, angelica and iris root, this spicy finish which lingers on the tongue. Over all a very pleasant gin, nothing too surprising or unique just a bold, complex, well made product, neither flavour dominates, a great gin for mixing, especially in longer drinks where lighter products could get lost.


Bombay Sapphire makes use of all eight botanicals used in Bombay Dry but also adds Cubeb Berries and Grains of Paradise in to the mix and is bottled at 40%. The additional botanicals are not the only difference between the two gins, I suspects the proportion of the botanicals differs slightly considering how much lighter Sapphire is than it's big brother. On the nose I am immediately met with a fruity citrus if not slightly acidic zing, behind this the familiar aroma of juniper lingers. On the palate the gin is very light on flavour, the citrus which was ever so dominant on the nose returns but doesn't stay for long, the same can be said for the juniper, the spice which appears in Bombay Dry is back again but much less pronounced, Sapphire has a distinctively shorter taste. 


Sapphire generally a much lighter gin than Bombay Dry, it is this lighter style which may be better suited vodka drinkers or those who have not yet acclimatised to juniper heavy gins, it would be a good gin for a martini if you are trying to wean a guest off vodka, I wouldn't entertain the idea of mixing it in a gin and tonic or lengthening it in any way as it will find itself a little lost.


I do believe both styles of Bombay have a place on the market but feel as though consumers are unsure of where and why this is. Both gin's are excellent products both fulfilling a demand, one for vetran gin drinkers and another for newbies. I would still maintain Bombay Sapphire owes as much of it's success to it's snazzy packaging and marketing as it does to the gin itself. This is by no means a reflection of the quality of the gin but more from my personal experience of people ordering a gin and tonic and requesting either Bombay Sapphire or Gordons as their gin of choice, two gin's which couldn't be further removed from each other but coincidently are two of the biggest marketed gins in the category. I would love to see Bombay Dry more widely available in England and less over shadowed by it's younger sibling.


Hope You Enjoy


Umpleby & Brown